Young Designers Look to Past for Inspiration
February 29, 2008
Gurkhas, who are known for their ever-battling spirit, were immortalized during the ESMOD Fashion Show in Jakarta recently.Their plain, khaki costumes -- more like working overalls -- have become an inspiration for local designer Diana Lee in producing her creations, which are infused with Indian yoga values.Diana uses as the main material linen, cotton, denim, leather and canvas to produce what she calls ""street wear"".""Military attire seems trendy today. But I've tried something new that carries more volume, loose -- not tight,"" Diana, 23, said.
""I think yoga comes with the same spirit that goes down well with streetwise kids,"" Diana said, adding that a design in leather would cost her up to Rp 1.5 million to make.Diana's designs, which were deemed very wearable, earned her Best Fashion Designer and Best Pattern Maker awards in the menswear category.Coming out as the Best Fashion Designer in the womenswear category was Imelda Kartini with her King's Warrior design, while Laura Tri Setyawati took Best Pattern Maker.
The event, which marked the graduation ceremony for the students of French-based fashion franchise ESMOD Jakarta, took the theme, I am what I am... yes I am.Around 225 items were worn by 180 models before a packed audience inside Plaza Bapindo assembly hall, which was turned into a stage for the occasion.
A group of five models walked along the catwalk with military overtones during a display of Tokugawa design by Muthia Wijaya. Makeup on the models added to their visual interest.Muthia immortalized the Japanese shogunate from the 16th Century to give an impression of eternity. Combined with Merlin Mansion's mysticism, the design looked fit for a cinema production or concert.
Muthia's creativity and vision won her the Special Jury Award.""I had to hunt as far as Bandung for the shoes and helmets,"" she said.Imelda Kartini raised the topic of war combined with Baroque-era motifs to deliver what she called a digital army.
""War has been omni-present from the past until now. It takes a toll. My message is peace,"" she said.Her five models wore different items based on the hierarchy from the monarch to ordinary people.
Emilia Ludwina, who won the Fashion Business Award, came out with a design that took a glimpse at the James Dean era in the 1950s, characterized by drainpipe trousers. Combination between Oriental touch and Indonesian batik was to be found in the design presented by Afriyanti, who won the Golden Needle Award while Dessy Natalia ""redefined your past and future"" in her design that won her the Student Recognition Award.
In other categories Melisa was named best designer in the one-year-program event which featured only womenswear. Dessy Natalia and Anita Ivandy won the Traditional Wear and Daily Wear categories.
Marketing vision
Participants were encouraged not only to be creative in their designs but also market-oriented.""You may see one design is more creative than the others. It might still lose. Creativity alone is not enough. They should be able to present a strategy on how to market their products,"" Ali Kharisma, a festival judge, stated.""Product knowledge is needed and we have to compliment those who proved to be more knowledgeable than the others,"" Ali, the owner PT Charisma Bali, said.
Another judge, Imelda Ahyar, hailed their maturity in making a concept, plus confidence. ""They need only experience to turn them into good designers,"" Imelda, an ESMOD alumnus, said.Former one-year-program student Imelda continued her studies in France before establishing Moiselle Mel Boutique in Pondok Indah.Most of the young designers -- all under 25 -- are eager about what to do next. ""I've already received an order from someone,"" said one. ""I'm poised for a partnership,"" said another.
Tender in years and robust in expectations as they may be, they may well heed Ali's advice: ""If they are to build more on their career, they'd better focus on one line. Don't be overconfident. Be open-minded ... open to criticism and willing to take feedback.
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